Canadian Fashion Reaches for Its Spot in the Sun

Chicago Style, 1929: When Women Chopped Their Hair And Grabbed A Fur

DOWNTOWN — Chicago in 1929 was the city of gangsters, jazz and drop waists — lots and lots of drop waists.

The city’s fashion for spring in that year is on display in a video from the Moving Image Research Collections at the University of South Carolina. The film is silent, but it shows women modeling cloche hats and head wraps with loose, flowing skirts and dresses or fur-lined jackets.

The video, featuring outtakes from a news story, was meant to show what was en vogue for women the spring and summer of ’29.

The decade was a major turning point for women’s fashion: hems rose, waists fell and outfits became less form-fitting as an extension of women gaining more independence. Makeup became more popular and women curled their hair and trimmed it into bobs.

The video’s not all serious, though: The models laugh, talk and smile while twirling around or standing together.

DEALMAN

Island Estates Women’s fashion show breaks records

CLEAWATER – The Island Estates Women’s Club in its 55th club year, with the assistance of its board, its members, and their guests, along with community support from businesses, has broken every club record this year for their Spring Fashion Show & Luncheon at the Belleair Country Club.

This yearly event aids their Island Estates Women’s Club Charitable Trust for the scholarship fundraisers and saw an additional 66 attendees at the program with more than 200 members and guests present. Outfits from La Boutique on Island Estates were modeled by several of the club’s members.

In addition 50/50 tickets, Mega tickets, a Gift Tree and Silent Auction included some prizes donated by our local businesses and restaurants, whose support also made this fundraiser so successful.

About $10,624 was raised to go toward the Scholarship Fund Charitable Trust for selected, graduating young women from Clearwater High School.

“It was another very successful event which could not have been possible without the dedication and hard work of president, Lynne McCaskill and Committee Chair, Debbie Christofferson, as well as many member volunteers and the generosity of our community partners,” a club news release said.

DEALMAN

2017: a new era for hijabi women in fashion

Walking in mega shopping malls around the Arab world is often a journey among the world’s number one commercial campaigns. From ethnic models to Caucasian women and men that equally fail to relate to Middle Eastern beauty aesthetics, shop windows and flashy ads often display an obvious neglect of many countries and ethnicities. Manal Rostom …

Walking in mega shopping malls around the Arab world is often a journey among the world’s number one commercial campaigns. From ethnic models to Caucasian women and men that equally fail to relate to Middle Eastern beauty aesthetics, shop windows and flashy ads often display an obvious neglect of many countries and ethnicities.

Manal Rostom is an Egyptian pharmacist and athlete that refused to stay unrepresented in her favourite brand’s campaigns. After years of growing up in a world that stereotyped her nation and women she could relate to, Rostom wanted to change what she considered unacceptable.

In 2014, the successful long-distance runner became the first hijabi woman to step into Nike HQ to be featured in the brand’s global campaign. Today she is part of a campaign taking the fitness and fashion industries by storm—the world’s first pro-sport hijab by a world-class brand.

Even though many Arab-based brands already have a wide range of alternatives, this particular move from Nike is widely celebrated as a gesture of acceptance and tolerance.

Daily News Egypt talked with Rostom to discuss her courageous endeavour, her struggle as a hijabi athlete, and the importance of the Pro Hijab.

What encouraged you to contact Nike for the first time back in 2014?

The first time I contacted Nike was in November 2014; after I founded my support group on Facebook for women surviving hijab. It was basically founded to reach out to women in Egypt and other Arab countries, which are dealing with having to take off their hijab or not being comfortable with it.

For many reasons, I did not want to be one of these women that were going to take off their hijab, so I decided to create this group. It grew so rapidly that we reached 40,000 women in the time between August and November.

I thought that it was a great opportunity to contact Nike and introduce myself through the Facebook group and the fact that I was an athlete that took part in several triathlons. I simply told them that I wanted to see Arab Muslim women running in their campaigns because as a hijabi runner, I wanted to see somebody that represents me.

Rostom was the first Hijabi woman to work with Nike in 2014 (Photo Handout)

What was the main message that you hoped to communicate through your first collaboration with Nike?

The main message that I wanted to communicate was that we are here and that we do exist in this context: we are active; we run; we are neither confined nor oppressed. I wanted to let people know that we are not limited to raising kids and spending our days in the kitchen like the media portrays us.

I wanted to let everyone know that we are interesting, at least some of us are. Generally speaking, no one should judge a woman based on how she looks or what she chooses to wear to display her faith.

I was the first Arab hijabi athlete to be invited to Nike’s HQ in July 2015 to attend their trainer summit. They recognised me as a sportsperson that lives in the Arab world and they wanted me to represent Arab women.

My images were all over the stores here in the UAE. Meanwhile, I am also the first hijabi Nike run-club coach in the world and the first hijabi trainer in the world as well.

How would you evaluate the impact and importance of launching the Nike Pro Hijab now amid all the political tension and increasing Islamophobia?

The product is crucial for me and my sport as well. I want any woman, who is already veiled, to feel confident that she now has got the product that will support her sport; whatever it is. I want women, who are thinking about wearing the hijab, to not be reluctant or confused.

I was born to Egyptian parents and I grew up in Kuwait. I was always confused about the hijab because I wanted to wear it, but the rest of the world was never supportive. However, as a kid, if I had me or any other successful hijab-wearing athlete to look up to, I would have never hesitated about my decision.

It is actually the perfect timing to launch such a product to the world. For the world’s number one sports brand to support Muslim women is going to change Islamophobia and the way people perceive us. It is going to make people more tolerant and less judgmental regarding hijab-wearing women.

The Egyptian long-distance runner was one of the key Muslim athletes featured in the Nike Pro Hijab campaign (Photo Handout)

I am a certified pharmacist and sports instructor. I have an Egyptian passport, but then also multiple US visas due to my work in the pharmaceutical industry. Nonetheless, last time, when I was there earlier this year, they stopped me and I was held for three hours in a room full of Arab and Chinese travellers—I missed my connecting flight just because I wore hijab.

For you as an athlete, what are the main positive features that the new Pro Hijab offers to veiled women?

I am an athlete that trains mostly outdoors; I run very long distances in brutal weather. I live in the Gulf area—in one of the hottest countries in the world. When you train for a triathlon or marathon, you train mostly outdoors with limited opportunity to train indoors. The reason why most hijabi women find it difficult to train outside is the heat.

Some women have very sensitive skin so the area around the neck gets agitated and develops a severe rash. The material with those athletes choose to cover their head is quite essential.

The Nike Pro Hijab is coming with dry-fit material that is used in running gear. It is going to impact long-distance training outdoors and heat tolerance. It is going to improve the performance of hijab-wearing athletes drastically.

What are the main characteristics that you would like to promote regarding Middle Eastern women in general and hijabi women in particular?

First of all, Middle Eastern women are not confined to setting up families and catering to domestic life or even raising 5 or 10 kids. Sadly, this is a stereotype that we grew up being scared of. We have many examples of hijab-wearing Middle Eastern women that excel in many fields.

 DEALMAN

Here’s how to win Sydney’s Fashion Chute Comp as it’s revealed $40K of prizes is up for grabs

EVER wondered how to enter The Fashion Chute Competition? Frocking up for the races could win a man and woman more than $40,000 worth of prizes. Here’s how to get a chance to win as well as tips from this year’s judges on what they’re looking for.

HOW TO ENTER:

Sydney’s fashionistas will be photographed for immediate entry to the competition and the chance to be selected and crowned overall winner in The Fashion Chute. Simply visit The Fashion Chute on either Championships Day 1 (Saturday 01 April) or on Championships Day 2 — Longines Queen Elizabeth Stakes (Saturday 08 April) at Royal Randwick and you will be automatically entered into the competition.

Amanda Macor celebrates after winning the Fashion Chute competition. Picture: AAP Image/David Moir

WHAT YOU WIN:

The first 40 contestants to enter the competition on each day will receive a personalised fashion illustration by either Stephanie Baynie or Alexandra Nea. The lucky overall winner will win more than $40,000 worth of prizes, including return Emirates flights to Europe, a Vogue Australia styling session, a Ginger and Smart voucher, a Longines Chantilly race day experience and a luxury Moët & Chandon VIP cellar tour in France.

Model Georgia Fowler laughs during the Fashion Chute competition. Picture: AAP Image/David Moir

TIPS ON HOW TO WIN

Robert Carroll, designer behind Strand Hatters (advice for men)

1) I like people to wear local designers, if possible

2) I’m really into mixing fabrics, specifically with accessories, such as a pocket square, tie, or

bow tie.

3) No white shoes, that’s a red flag right off the bat for me

4) I love a hat, but it’s not absolutely compulsory for a man. Since men’s grooming is so big

now, as long as their hair is properly styled, men can go sans hat.

5) If opting for a hat, make sure it is felt, not straw.

Leave your white shoes at home fellas.

Alexandra and Genevieve Smart, designers behind Ginger and Smart (advice for men/women)

1) Create a modern and unique interpretation of race wear

2) Polished grooming

3) Style your look with a clever edit of elevated accessories

4) Be brave. Explore print and colour combinations or play with new proportions

5) Enjoy yourself

Alex Smart and Genevieve Smart are the sisters behind Ginger & Smart.

Nerida Winter, celebrity milliner (advice for women)

1) Investing in good quality really shows. You don’t necessary need to break the bank, but

having an eye for luxe fabric and construction is essential.

2) Make sure you’re dressed in season appropriate attire, that goes for your apparel as well as

your accessories, specifically headwear.

3) Look to the runways for inspiration, but be sure to remember that while being bold is

important, there’s a fine line between looking chic and looking like you’re going to a

costume party.

4) Enlist the advise of an expert when selecting your head piece and avoid the temptation to do

it yourself.

5) Accessories are the key to creating your own personal style. This year, there is a return of

the statement piece, but be sure to focus on just one statement, whether it be an accessory

or your frock.

Nerida Winter (centre) with Alexandra and Genevieve Smart.

Chronicles of Her blogger Carmen Hamilton’s fashion month secrets

Travelling to all four fashion weeks sounds like an absolute dream, and for Carmen Hamilton it was, but there were a few hairy moments between the Instagrams.

When you’re stuck outside the wrong airport in Milan with 100 kilograms of luggage and there’s a taxi strike, you’re not going to feel particularly glam.

“This is what people don’t see about fashion week,” the Chronicles of Her blogger says. She landed in Auckland in the small hours of Friday morning.

Hamilton and Lainy Black, who works on her site, made it to their apartment at 3am that night after an hour-long bus ride and lugging two suitcases each through the Milan metro.

It was worth it, though: Gucci’s Milan show gave her goosebumps.

“There was just something about it – the ambience in the room, it was just one of those pinch yourself moments,” Hamilton says. Sitting behind A$AP Rocky and Florence Welch definitely helped.

Chanel in Paris was another highlight.

“It was crazy. There was a rocket that legitimately took off. That show is always the pinnacle,” Hamilton says. “It’s one of the hardest ones to get invited to, so that was a bit of a career milestone for me.”

More than a lot of bloggers, Hamilton has always kept an eye on her audience. With a degree in marketing and journalism and several years at Vogue Australia’s website under her belt, she offers her readers tips they can actually use as well as beautiful imagery.

“When I first started blogging, people would be posting beautiful outfit photos and the title would be something like ‘Wanderlust,'” she says.

“Now people are more aware that readers are coming to you to see how to wear something, or to see how to build this functional but exciting wardrobe.”

Hamilton’s site has a genuine street style section as well, called Street 365. Rather than the same old fashion insiders, Hamilton features artists, students, bakers and filmmakers she sees around.

“You see the same faces all the time. Now it’s the same people, they live these crazy lives, they’re not wearing things they own. For people who aren’t in the fashion industry, you can’t shop it,” she says.

Instead, Hamilton wants to offer the same sort of posts that got her excited when she first started blogging.

“We’ve shot nail artists and illustrators – all types of people. It’s more about, what do you wear when you roll out of bed in the morning? Has your style always been like that, has it changed?”

Breaking up the fashion echo chamber gives Chronicles of Her a point of difference, and Hamilton sees a similar twist when it comes to New Zealand labels.

She rates Wynn Hamlyn, Paris Georgia Basics, Eugenie, Georgia Alice and Kate Sylvester. Her favourite hoop earrings are from Meadowlark.

Hamilton is in Auckland for a Fashion in the City event at Coach on Queen Street on Friday. She’ll be in store from 4-7pm offering styling tips.

 DEALMAN

 

Eckhaus Latta launches R-rated fashion campaign

Had a hard day at the office?

Spare a thought for the photographic assistants who had to work on set of the latest Eckhaus Latta campaign.

The fashion house debuted an R-rated spring 2017 campaign on Instagram and its this week. Website visitors must confirm they are 18 or over to access the images.

The concept? Couples having sex.

The images, according to Paper magazine, feature real-life couples and people of different ethnicities and sexual orientations are represented.

The most explicit…bits…have been heavily pixelated and the couples are all wearing pieces from the new line.

Highlights include a metallic parka around the waist of a woman and a pair of jeans artfully positioned half way down the legs of one of the male “models”.

The New York-based designers Zoe Latta and Mike Eckhaus are renowned for their gender fluid collections and avant-garde presentations. Their previous shows and campaigns also push the envelope and have included a children’s choir and the live demolition of a wall.

“We want people who wear our clothes to feel like our clothes are adding to them, not defining them,” Latta has said.

Liberated from branding or marketing mechanisms that make people feel small. We’d like to offer an alternative – whether that’s in self-image, body image, gender identity or colour.”

The “underground” creatives have been designing clothes for what they call a “liberated audience” since 2012. Both made the Forbes 30 Under 30 list in 2016 alongside model Ashley Graham and former reality TV star turned fashion designer, Lauren Conrad.

When taking in this new campaign, which one can do via the Eckhaus Zatta website (provided you are over the age of 18), the images are not crass or feel pornographic. The photos promote a feeling of intimacy and sensuality. A gesture not usually seen in fashion campaigns and an industry that has traditionally been rooted in the “sex sells” mantra of advertising.

For the most recent gig, Eckhaus Latta recruited Korean photographer Heji Shin. Shin, who now splits her time between Berlin and New York, excels at edgy fashion editorials. One of her most recent projects was “a German sex education book for teenagers”, she told NBC.

The engagement of a female photographer also appears to be a strategic move that helps shift the hetero male gaze most high-fashion campaigns have traditionally been seen through.

There is no overtly sexual or irreverent undertones to the images, like the ones we’ve become accustomed to since the advent of Terry Richardson-types and social media.

There is no simulation of images usually seen on PornHub or, say, that 2007 Dolce & Gabbana poster which many believed reflected “gang rape”.

Rather, Eckhaus Latta’s campaign celebrates (consensual) sexual expression.

It follows another groundbreaking moment in fashion this year, with the Vogue Paris casting transgender model Valentina Sampaio.

The French edition of the fashion monthly bible was the country’s first magazine to feature a transgender model on its cover.

Both occurrences, as well as more diversity on catwalks across the world, including Melbourne, is a sign that fashion is taking another step closer to becoming less constrained than an Alex Perry corset.

Eckhaus Latta were approached for comment.

 DEALMAN